With sheer cut out exact shape of stencil see result below:
Apply another Tesa Film as mounting aid
Clamp stencil film into wooden pole according picture below.
Then put Super Glue on the SuperGlueArea only!
Then wrap the stencil film around the pole, (right turn as of viewed
from top)
use the Tesa Film mounting aid to fix the wrap firmly.
Now wait 15 minutes to be really sure that the super glue hardening
has finished 100%
Now Unfasten the Tesa Film carefully. ( do not "open" the curl too much,
otherwise the glued area might unfasten too)
With lots of care cut off obsolete part of Film (Tesa and stencil)
Cut from bottom to top
While cutting move knife from right to left.
Do not cut while moving from left to right.
Cutting needs some practice it might happen that you "waste"
the cone in the first try.
Just try again on you will get a feeling for that process.
After cutting:
Carefully release film cone from pole:
Stick in back end of Dart Shaft and cut off cone at correct position:
Shift dart shaft through cone:
Put some Superglue on end of shaft.
Wrap around 2 to 3 layers of sewing string, put superglue on
each layer of string:
Put again super glue all over the string wrapped area and shift the
cone up.
Be AWARE! from now on you only have 15 seconds time the adjust the
cone centric to the shaft.
You should be prepared for this immediate action of precision.
Now the Fins have to be formed thermally to fit diameter of blowgun
perfectly.
Shift the wire ring over the fins to enable insertion of cone into
heated metal pipe (blow gun)
Use hot air pistol to heat up the very front end of metal pipe. Temperature
must be above 100°C
Make your finger tip wet with a drip of water. Touch with the wet finger
the hot pipe. The
water drip must cook immediately. ( but do not overheat the metal pipe)
Example:
My metal pipe blowgun is cal 0.625 the wall is 0.08 inch thick.
My hot Air pistol has 1800 Watt , form 1 inch distance I heat the pipe
for 40 seconds,
while turning the pipe slowly. Then I insert the dart 2 inch deep into
pipe (the wire ring strips off)
While in the pipe I turn the dart slowly for 10 seconds, during the
turning i hold the dart shaft non centric
As soon as the 10 seconds are over i shift the dart as deep as possible
into the pipe (into the cold section)
For 10 seconds again turn the dart while now holding the dart shaft
centric in line to pipe.
As soon as the 10 seconds are over i suddenly pull out the dart out
of pipe. Thermal forming is finished!
The result: A perfectly fitting cone with low drag.
Now use a nail clipper cut off fins to correct length:
Which length to choose to get a waggle free perfectly compensated dart
is an other science. Just send me a mail I'll assist you and recommend
best fin length on individual case.
Before fin length it is important that the cone is attached concentric
to the dart shaft!
Also the Shaft must be straight and short!
Now we have an advanced waggle free dart with film cone.
Go for a happy blow!
Questions and comments send via
email to Norbert the DartDesigner